It’s almost a year since a bunch of virtual strangers gathered for a bike tour to Botswana. Those strangers came back as firm friends. Perhaps the life that was most changed after the Botswana adventure was Rochelle’s. The experience so enthralled her and she enjoyed riding the Honda NC750 X so much that she found a mint, as-new example at Honda East Rand and bought it. Her husband Pieter is suffering from a serious case of “fomo” and is drooling over various options. I felt that we needed another ride together to renew our friendship, so I came up with “The Kaapsehoop Canter and Magoebas meander”.
Having limited time, we stole away from our crazy schedules on a Friday, met mid-morning at Pallet Farm Stall in Rietvalleirand in Pretoria East, smashed a cup of their excellent coffee and a pancake (or two), then headed out east. We rode out on the Welbekend road with the idea of joining the N4 at Bronkhorstspruit, thereby doing less highway and avoiding the Donkerhoek toll gate. The one missing boogie was Brian, who was in the Cape on a family tour. Leon was on his brand-new red BMW R 1300 GS Adventure, Pieter was on the NC that Rochelle had ridden to Botswana, which I now own, and Steven was on his trusty and potent KTM Super Adventure 1290 S. I rode my BMW R 1200 R, unfortunately without Irene as she was in bed with bronchitis. Rochelle was raring to go on her new NC.
The weather was playing ball with the most perfect blue-eyed day, which, like Goldilocks’s porridge, was neither too hot nor too cold, but just right. The forecast for the weekend was for the good weather to continue for the duration. Bring it on! We cruised out towards Witbank, turning off at the Balmoral offramp to have a brunch at Sergeant Pepper, a cool Boer War-themed restaurant adjacent to the poignant Balmoral Concentration Camp Cemetery. Over breakfast, I shared a bit of the history relating to what was a really sad event in our nation’s history. We only had a total distance of under 300 k’s to travel, so we got back on the bikes and meandered east.
Sticking with the Boer War history, we turned into the Bergendal Memorial just past Belfast. The scene of the last pitched battle of the Boer War before the guerrilla warfare that was to drag on thereafter, with an elusive bunch of ragtag farmers leading the might of the British Empire a merry dance. It was eventually Lord Kitchener’s heinous scorched earth policy that brought the war to an end. Taking in the serene and peaceful site, it is hard to imagine that this is the place where cannons once roared and men bled and died.
Back on our bikes, we continued down the N4, passing Milly’s, Machadodorp and down the Elands River Valley past Waterval Boven. I love showing people who have travelled this road many times the old NZASM tunnel, which was hewn through solid rock way back in 1892. The tunnel replaced a rack-railway system, which was the only place in the world outside of Switzerland where such a system was used. This system used a toothed rail between the normal tracks, which the engine, suitably adapted, could hook into. In this way, the train could traverse excessively steep gradients without slipping and sliding. The tunnel is very dark and best ridden on a bike to light it up. Not a good idea in this day and age to walk through on your own. The view of the Elands River cascading down a waterfall into the valley below is something to behold.
Once again, we mounted up and continued down the valley with surprisingly little traffic. It seems that most traffic takes the alternate route since that road has been pimped. At Ngodwana, adjacent to the Sappi sawmill, the road to Kaapsehoop goes off to the right, up the mountain. This road has some nice sweeps, albeit a little bumpy. Adventure bikes, with their long-travel suspension, are the weapons of choice if red mist descends. On a previous occasion, Brian and I did a day trip to Kaapsehoop on our Ducati Desert Xs and smoked them up the mountain. The Italian thoroughbreds revelled in that sort of abuse, as did we. This time it was Leon and I who set a brisk pace up the mountain. The R 1300 GS has decent mumbo, and with the R 1200 R for company, made short work of the 14 k’s to the little village of Kaapsehoop perched on the top of the mountain. Rochelle was being exposed to very different riding from what she had experienced in the wide-open spaces and straight roads of Botswana. A perfect opportunity to further develop her riding skills. In no time, we got settled into Angel’s Mist, our B&B of choice in Kaapsehoop.
It was late afternoon by now, and a visit to Kaapsehoop is not complete without popping into ‘the office’. Being a trifle thirsty after our ride, we got into comfy kit and then strolled up through the village to a little local watering hole called ‘Nagkantoor’. Owned and run by acclaimed journalist DeWet Potgieter, it is the perfect spot if you “have to work late”. We toasted the gathering of the Boogie clan with a couple of ice-cold chaps of various persuasions. My son Dave, who had left late due to work commitments, arrived soon after, enjoying his ride immensely on his recently acquired Honda CB500 X. Whilst Dave is new to the clan, his bike is not, having been Brian’s ride on the Botswana jaunt. Subsequently acquired by Dave. Brian is now the very proud owner of a spanking new Royal Enfield Himalayan, for which he has great travel plans.
After chewing the fat with DeWet, we strolled to a local eatery next door to Angel’s Mist for dinner. As per usual, the typical bike banter ensued around the table as we satiated our now considerable hunger. Not having been on most of the roads that we planned to ride the next day, we wondered about their state, given the poor record of road maintenance generally prevalent in Mpumalanga in recent years. It was then off to bed. What’s to be will be, with typical Boogie spirit, we would have a good time no matter what.
Saturday dawned bright and sunny. Early mornings in Kaapsehoop are often shrouded in mist, but not this day. We enjoyed a great brekkie, packed the bikes and rolled down the mountain, keeping an eye out for the feral horses that roam the forests and often stroll through the village. Unfortunately, they were lying low, so we filled up at Ngodwana and continued our journey. Our route would take us towards Sudwala Caves and then right to Rosehaugh and on to Sabie. From Sabie, we would ride to Graskop, with the obligatory stop at Harrie’s for a coffee and possibly a pancake, before heading out past God’s Window.
The ride up the mountain from Sudwala is exhilarating with great, constant-radius bends which encourage much red mist tomfoolery. Leon and I tipped the BMs on their ears and hauled up the mountain with Dave in hot pursuit. Despite his horsepower deficit, he gave a good account of himself thanks to the Honda’s great handling. The road to Sabi is bumpy in places but pothole-free, again allowing enjoyable and spirited riding. We rolled in and out of Sabi and on to Graskop, where we enjoyed Harrie’s hospitality. It was now pleasantly warm, making for brilliant riding weather. Watered and fed, we rode out of town past God’s Window, Bourke’s Luck potholes and the Three Rondawels. This ride, adjacent to the Blyde River Canyon, is stunning. Again, the road surface is pretty good, and the views are magnificent.
The road then T-Junctions with the Lydenburg, Ohrigstad, Hoedspruit road. Turning right at the T takes you over the Abel Erasmus Pass and onto the JG Strydom tunnel. The road surface is a bit patchy in places but not potholed, with some spectacular mountain views. After the good summer rains, the countryside is beautiful, still lush and green, with a lot of water in the river snaking through the valley to your left. We stopped at the tunnel for some pics. It was getting properly warm with the temperature approaching 30 degrees C, so it was good to get on the bikes and get the “fans” going again. 33 k’s before Hoedspruit, we turned left to Tzaneen. With the wisdom of hindsight, we should have ridden into Hoedspruit, then turned left on the Mica, Letsitele road. Although slightly further, it is an open road ride, whereas the road we took travels through a lot of congested urban sprawl before Tzaneen. Nevertheless, we made it through Tzaneen and out of town to the left turn onto the Magoebaskloof road. We were booked into the Magoebaskloof Hotel at the top of the pass, so we had the immense pleasure of riding up the pass. The road surface is excellent, but there is no room for error. If you run out of talent, you are either going into the mountain or off the mountain. It still makes for superb riding, and it was a happy bunch of bikers that pulled into the Hotel in time to watch the French MotoGP.
The facilities are good at the Magoebaskloof Hotel, and the location is amazing, with panoramic views across the valley. The food is also proper. Where it does fall short is in creating an ambience. It gets nippy in the evenings, yet they do not get a fire going in the main bar, which is lovely, and sports a huge fireplace. Similarly, the fireplace in the dining room lies dormant. Some nice background music, a fire for atmosphere, and good food make for a great recipe for repeat business. We had a pleasant evening, slept well, and after a hearty breakfast, packed up and rode to Haenertsburg to fill up. Sunday was Mother’s Day, so we planned on getting home reasonably early. It was interesting to see the fuel consumption achieved by the various bikes. Dave’s CB500 X was most economical, returning around 31 k’s/l, with the two NC’s nipping at his heels with just under 30 k’s/l. My R 1200 R surprised me with 22 k’s/l and Leon’s big Adventure doing closer to 18 k’s/l. I didn’t check Steve’s big Katoom, but would guess that its consumption was similar to the BM’s.
The ride to Polokwane is pleasant enough, starting with some magnificent twisties. We chose to ride the alternate route from Polokwane, which is very pleasant, taking you through Potties and Nylstroom. The N1 tends to be busy and costly with its toll gates. We pulled into the Wimpy in Lephalale for a drink before saying our goodbyes and jumping on the highway for the final dash home. Another wonderful one for the books! I would highly recommend this route for a two-nighter. The roads are generally good, with suitable sections for the odd “special stage”. At no point when you are off the highways do you not get to enjoy beautiful scenery, which varies from mountains and valleys to forests and bushveld. The distances are also very comfortable, with the longest day being around 340 km, with plenty of stops along the way for refreshments if necessary.
And so, another highly enjoyable Boogie came to an end. Friendships rekindled, good roads ridden, new experiences shared. Once again, the common denominator is motorcycles. How bland and boring is a life without a bike? Get out there and ride!
