Few people do more to get bums on seats than the folks at Turkana Gear. Last year, I participated in the Turkana Challenge, and it got me doing things that I would not normally consider. The challenge consisted of 15 unique challenges for you to complete, and once done, you are eligible for some spectacular prizes. In this year’s Turkana, the challenges are divided into different categories with even more prizes to be won. On my last visit to Kaapschehoop, I finished the last of the 2024 challenges, so what better way to kick off the new challenge with another trip to Kaapschehoop? My regular riding buddy, Maarten, rides a BMW R 1250 R, which means we have to stick to the grey stuff. But, with him sitting this one out, it opened up a whole host of potential routes I could take, seeing that I was on my new Royal Enfield Himalayan 450.
On our last visit to Kaapschehoop, we ran into the owners of the quaint B&B called Kattekwaad, Chris and Lulu. While Maarten was chatting to Lulu about cats, I mentioned that I wanted to visit the little antique store in search of old watches. Chris pulled out an old Tissot watch and gave it to me, saying that it was broken and that I could have it. Back home, I inspected the watch and found the main winding spring to be broken. After carefully disassembling the watch, I replaced the spring and got the watch ticking again. I sent a video of the watch to Lulu, and I could hear Chris in the background asking if he could have the watch back. He was only joking, of course, but I knew that I was going to ride back to Kaapschehoop one day and return Chris’ watch to him.
On a chilly July morning, I set off in the direction of Kaapschehoop. I had my trusty Turkana Duffalo bag strapped to the bike, and Turkana Pellipouch doing duty on the handlebars. The Himalayan comes standard with a rear luggage rack and additional tie-down loops on the frame, which is ideal for tying things down. My first stop was to be the Balmoral concentration camp site just past Bronkhorstspruit. This site has a wonderful restaurant where coffee is an absolute must. As I was thawing, I strolled through the cemetery and reflected on the brutality of war. There are 427 graves here. 339 of them are children under the age of 15. Please tell me again how you are having the worst day of your life when your barista gets your chai-latte wrong.
After coffee, I saddled up and headed on the N4 to save some time. I stopped in Dullstroom for another round of coffee and scones. I am happy to report that the notoriously potholed road from Dullstroom to Lydenburg is now mostly fixed. The unhappy part of it is that the trucks are now back on this road, so who knows how long the repairs will hold up. From Lydenburg, I headed up Long Tom Pass. This is where the Himalayan really surprised me. The shocks are from Showa, and they do a fine job of keeping the Himalayan on course. At this altitude, not all of the horses pull their weight, so outright speed is not an option. But then I remembered a hidden service road up Mauchsberg. This requires a nimble bike with torque to navigate the twisty uphill climb. Seems like I was on the right bike then! The road takes you to the top of the mountain, overlooking Long Tom Pass. I spent a good couple of minutes here, enjoying the silence.
After descending the pass, a quick stop at the Long Tom canon meant I was not far from my overnight accommodation. Another pass or two, and I rolled into Kaapschehoop. I checked in with Abrie at Angel’s Mist Guest House. He had his friend Helmut over, and the coals were almost ready for a delicious chicken braai. My timing was perfect!
After a late lunch, I strolled over to Chris and Lulu’s place, watch in hand, ready to surprise Chris. I came at a bad time. Poor Chris was down with the flu, and even though he tried to look excited, I was not going to ask him for a photo with his watch. I let them be, got on the Himalayan, and went in search of a place to photograph the sunrise the next day. Abrie had some ideas, and he accompanied me on his new CF Moto 450. I am happy to see more and more people converting to the sub-500 cc class of bikes!
The next morning, I headed to the sunrise spot, and I marvelled at our beautiful country. I just sat there with coffee in hand, peering over the escarpment. I think I must move here…
Heading back down Kaapschehoop pass, I revelled in the Himalayan’s handling again, all the while wondering how it would fare on dirt. Well, I was about to find out. After stopping at the five-arch bridge and the NZASM tunnel for the Turkana Safari, I turned into Waterval-Boven, through the town, and onto a dirt road. I switched the Himalayan’s ABS off on the back wheel and just went on my merry way. There were a few nervous moments as the tyres were road biased. They are not bad on gravel, but I would not want to ride through mud with them. Two rotations and you will be on slicks. The gravel ended just as I was starting to get comfortable. I headed back in the direction of Machadadorp, but instead of re-joining the N4, I headed towards Carolina to see if I could find the lesser-known ghost town called the Hamlet of Bonnefoi.
Charles Everard and his brother Thomas had a trading store in Bonnefoi. The hamlet was on the old wagon route to Lydenburg. They also had a post office. One day, a certain Bertha King came from Bethal to collect her mail, and there she met Charles, fell in love, and got married. In 1903, she was instrumental in building a stately farmhouse. They also built a church and a school. She was an artist at heart and even taught the local kids about different art techniques. The artistic streak continued with her children and grandchildren, who became artists in their own right. To this day, the Everard Group Artists still inspire other artists. Bertha’s daughter, Ruth, was responsible for the design and the construction of the Anglican Church in the nearby Carolina. Apartheid activists Braam Fischer and Joe Slovo were also said to have used Bonnefoi as a hide-out, before fleeing to Swaziland.
I stopped my own iron horse in front of the trading post building, and even though the building is a bit worse for wear, the beautifully ornate metal pillars are still holding the structure intact. I then rode to the old farmhouse and wondered what wonderful stories had been played out here in 1903. Each room had a fireplace, so I can just imagine the crackling of fire and the sound of laughter.
The house is being carried away piece by piece, and not long from now, there will be very little left to remind us of this glorious time. I was a bit moved when I left Bonnefoi. The church is no longer in use, but at least the old school has been repurposed as a house. Then came the boring slog back home, which gave me ample time to think about the Himalayan. This bike is ideal for the type of riding I do. I like travelling slowly and experiencing my surroundings. Just before I joined the N4, I saw a jackal surveying the next farm to terrorise. Near Dullstroom, I saw a majestic eagle on a telephone pole. Had I been on a faster bike, I might have missed them altogether. The Himalayan proved a worthy travel companion, and more and more people are starting to see that small-capacity adventure bikes can do the job. You only have to look at the motorcycle sales figures to see the trend. Adventure bike sales are up by 18% from January to June, compared to the same period last year, and 44% of those bikes were in the sub-500 cc category! So, if it is adventure you are looking for, the Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 is just the ticket. And if you have no idea where to go or what to do, the Turkana Safari will get you started!
