I rolled onto the freeway in Pretoria at 5.30 AM with the mercury at 4 Degrees C. Gqeberha a distant 1140 k’s away, seemed awfully far given that I was on TVS’s flagship, the Apache 310RR. Don’t get me wrong, this little motorcycle has some serious credentials, including a 24-hour Indian endurance record. I told you about that in my lead-up to this story, but I have been reflecting on that record.

The 24-hour Motorcycle record for individuals was set recently by Ivan Cervantes, riding a Triumph Tiger 1200 GT Explorer with 4012 k’s covered in 24 hours. Granted, that was by one rider however it was on a 1200cc motorcycle with a 30-litre tank. TVS set their 24-hr record with 3x 310 RRs running simultaneously for an incredible 3657,92 k’s, only 354 k’s less than the mighty Triumph. The 310 RR has an 11-litre tank which required topping up every hour. The Triumph could make way fewer stops for fuel which helped the average speed hugely. Averaging 153 k’s an hour meant that the little RRs were literally flat out for 24 hours, testimony to their design, overall quality, and astounding reliability.

I was riding on the road, and although not planning to thrash the RR mercilessly, I also did not want to take forever to get to Gqeberha. I decided to hold the bike to 8,000 rpm, just above the peak torque developed at 7,700 rpm. This would hopefully translate into decent hill-climbing ability and decent fuel economy. 8,000 rpm translates to an indicated 130 km/h which should keep me safe from the law. Just.

The 11-litre tank would mean filling up every 200 k’s or thereabouts. Five fuel stops in all. My plan was to splash ‘n dash, literally stand for some respite from the riding position then get going as quickly as possible. I ate a decent cereal and banana breakfast which had to see me through to PE.

Only past Jo’burg’s early traffic could I settle to a steady pace. It was getting progressively colder. The TVS’s motor was running at 69,5 degrees C, almost 20 degrees below normal operating temperature. I pulled into the One Stop beyond Parys to fill up and check my consumption and decided to have a coffee to try and warm up and allow the sun to start warming the planet somewhat. For some inexplicable reason, the first light is always the most frigid. The TVS sports fantastic lights which had cut a swathe through the darkness.

The hot coffee did the trick, and I was a happier chap running past Kroonstad. Fuel consumption seemed consistent at 24 km/L, so 200 k’s per tank was achievable with some reserve. I was using a mechanical cruise control which holds the throttle open at a constant setting. I would set it to 125 km/h on the flats, assist it on the uphill and allow it to run away on the downhills. This gave my right-hand plenty of opportunity to rest.

The kilometres melted away as the little TVS strutted its stuff. I was amazed by the seat comfort. What looks like a race bike pad is a sort of memory foam which proved to be incredibly comfortable and supportive. Despite my 6’3” frame I never felt any leg discomfort for the duration of the ride. The RR is amazingly roomy for a smallish motorcycle. The clip-on bars are high enough and close enough to keep your torso in a gentle crouch. The screen deflects wind from your body to about mid-chest height, allowing your helmet to be in clean air. As fatigue set in towards the end of the ride, my neck could feel the effect of holding my head up for hours on end. For the rest, I was surprisingly fresh.

Topping up in a now much warmer Colesburg, I was getting my long-distance Mojo back. There were a bunch of guys on big BMWs with a backup vehicle carrying their kit. I chuckled as I swung my leg over my minimalistic RR with a tiny tail pack with all my gear and headed south. Soft boys!!

Filling up in Cradock I was looking forward to the best part of the ride. Bring on the mountains! With its superb chassis and suspension and Michelin tyres, the RR is as good a handling bike as you could wish to ride. For those who have travelled this route will know, it is littered with countless trucks carrying cargo to and from the port of Gqeberha. Cars can get stuck for tens of k’s behind a convoy of trucks. Not so my plucky Apache. Tucked in and now enjoying the mountain roads, the 310 blitzed slower traffic. Cars that had passed me at speed were re-passed and never seen again as the RR strafed the bends. 60 km/h posted suggested limits were a doddle at 120+.

Eleven and a half hours after leaving Pretoria I rolled into PE having averaged a very respectable 108 km/h and better than 24 km/L. A great evening relaxing with family over a great dinner and a few glasses of decent red soon got rid of any residual aches and pains, and a good night’s rest had me fresh and ready to spectate the incredible event that had precipitated my trip.

Row for rhinos. A lady by the name of Sharon Jessup has taken the plight of the rhino to heart and made it her life’s work to make a difference. She is an endurance athlete of note, completing a Guinness Book Record for the most consecutive half marathons by a female, running 102 consecutive half marathons. She has run through every rhino-bearing game reserve in the country to draw attention to the threat to these iconic animals.

The ‘Rowathon’ was another Guinness record attempt. Teams would attempt to row for 24 hours and set a new record. The attempt was staged at the recently revamped Boardwalk Shopping Mall, starting at 3 PM on Friday and rowing until 3 PM on Saturday. My daughter Jenny was partnering with a Grey College rowing club member.

The format was to row for 30 minutes then rest for 30, for 24 hours non-stop. Sleep deprivation took a huge toll on the athletes, especially the Grey boys who, despite their athletic prowess were not used to the long-sustained effort. The ladies seemed to fare better. The sessions seemed to blur into a never-ending flurry of row, eat, drink, and try and rest aching bodies for mere minutes before doing it all over again.

I had a chat with a ranger, Eric Singqoto, who was collecting donations from passers-by and spectators. He is a seven times Comrades finisher and accompanied Sharon on her game park runs, carrying his rifle for ‘just in case’. “So, what motivated you to become a game ranger, Eric”, I asked. “Dave, I was in the SAPS, and having grown up in a village in the countryside I love the outdoors. As a Christian, God laid on my heart that we were given dominion over the animals, and I asked myself what were we doing with what God has entrusted us. I resigned and joined Wildlife Conservation because I thought I could make a difference”.

Wow! I found myself almost choking up at the heart of this humble and committed man who sacrifices so much for the animals that he loves. We need more Erics, that’s for sure! He tells me that so much poaching is still ‘inside jobs’. Poor people are swayed by the lure of money. Money is certainly the root of all evil! So much crime is a direct result of the dire economic state in SA exacerbated by rampant ruling party corruption.

At 10 PM I left the Mall to catch some shut-eye. My heart went out to the athletes labouring on for hour after hour. I was back at sunrise to try and encourage where I could. Despite aching bodies, spirits were high. By 19 hours into the attempt the previous record was already broken, now they just had to endure until 24 hours for the job to be done.

And so, it was! It was a bunch of exhausted but elated rowers that gave high-fives all around. Teams had rowed the equivalent of around 250 k’s in their 24-hr effort. Donations in favour of rhino conservation can still be made in the wake of this event up until the 11th of August [Donate Here]. Thinking of Eric’s commitment, and the efforts of these athletes, it seems just too easy to throw a few rands for the cause. What we desperately need is big corporate funding and feet on the ground. People like Sharon Jessup and Eric Singqoto, will not only give money but give of their time to make a difference. Rhinos are part of our national heritage and treasures that we cannot allow to be lost. If rhinos go extinct, what will be next? Lion parts for muti? God alone knows…

After a chilled evening, especially for Jen who was really walking wounded after her heroic ordeal, it was early to bed. Jen’s endurance event was over, but the second half of mine was still to come. I was up early and after a quick coffee I was packed and on the road by 6.45 AM. I rode out into a beautiful sunrise with red-tinged clouds scattered over a calm sea. It was a balmy 13 degrees C, a huge difference from the 4 degrees out of Pretoria a few days earlier.

I was able to dispense with a lot of layers so I was way more comfortable on the bike. I knew it would get colder towards Cradock but first I had the Olifantshoek Pass to enjoy. The TVS, gulping the dense coastal air and now properly loose from the open road miles, was running like a long dog. The 18% power gain at sea level for normally aspirated motors is really evident on a small-capacity motor. The pass was infested with trucks returning from having disgorged their loads at the port. No sweat for the RR. It goes through corners faster than the ANC through taxpayers’ money. Trucks were mere mobile chicanes for the flying Apache. On and up we went, revelling in perfect riding conditions.

Riding a smaller-capacity bike fast is incredibly rewarding. You cannot be sloppy. You stay in tune with the motor all the time. The light and responsive handling helps you make the most of every bit of power. Running at and around the torque peak meant that only on the odd occasion was it necessary to drop to 5th gear to accelerate or maintain decent momentum. It is almost like riding two strokes back in the day. You need to be focused on where the motor is in its happy zone and then engage with the bike to keep it there. The RR has enough midrange to stay in top gear when accelerating from 80 km/h up to cruising speed. Once in top gear, it runs uphill and down dale with gusto. I was amazed by the overall comfort given the tidy dimensions of the bike. It was literally only my neck that got fatigued over time.

Ten hours later I rolled up to my front gate. The average speed for the up trip was 113 km/h and fuel consumption was still an excellent 23 km/L. I was blown away by the TVS Apache 310RR. Checking the oil level showed that despite running hard for 2,300 kilometres the RR used no oil whatsoever. Even the chain lube lasted for the duration. For giggles, I popped into Wayne Pheiffer Cycles in PE. A BMC Roadmachine racing bicycle will set you back the princely sum of R134,599. The TVS Apache 310 RR can be had for a mere R79,999. I certainly know which one I would rather ride. Gives one some perspective of relative value, doesn’t it? Huge thanks to TVS for entrusting me with your spectacular Apache 310 RR. It can wear its 24-hr record with pride!

TVS Apache 310RR

For more information on the bike featured in this article, click on the link below…

Gabriel Turano is a Brazilian traveller and adventurer. He is one of the lucky few who had the courage to leave a good job in order to pursue a more personal journey, a journey of discovery and, hopefully, change, not only for himself but for everyone he meets along the way. Having visited more than 50 countries on four continents, he is now travelling through South Africa on a Hero motorcycle and, from time to time, sends reports on his progress and experiences. Here is the latest submission. For more information on Gabriel, visit www.gabrielturano.com

The Journey with Gabriel Turano

It was February 21st, 2023, and after a little over 30 days in Brazil, it was time to hit the road again. Well, not exactly hitting the road with my feet this time, but with my wheels.

I was heading to South Africa, coincidentally exactly one year after my last visit to the country. During my previous stay, I hadn’t fully enjoyed it as I would have liked. There were two reasons for that: firstly, I volunteered in a small village on the famous Garden Route called Wilderness. Secondly, there were challenges involved in getting around the country.

This journey was different. Over the course of a year, I had been discussing a partnership with Hero SA, an Indian motorcycle manufacturer with a strong presence on the continent. Apart from having conditions to buy/rent a big motorcycle or even receiving offers from other brands, I saw in the XPULSE an excellent project in terms of addressing Africa’s needs with a reliable motorcycle. We will discuss it further, but qualities such as low weight, robustness, fuel efficiency, and easy access to spare parts have convinced me.

My journey began with a gruelling 35-hour transit. Due to the pandemic, flights crossing the Atlantic between Brazil and Africa had been suspended, and the few remaining options forced me to head northwest towards Europe or the Middle East before pointing south. To Africa!

I arrived at Johannesburg airport, which, although not the capital of the country, is one of the main cities due to its historical importance in mineral exploration, especially gold. The city is situated at an altitude of almost 2000 meters, and fortunately, I arrived during a season with more pleasant temperatures, although still facing challenges with rain.

It was late afternoon, and I made a brief visit to the Hero dealer in JHB. I had the opportunity to meet the entire team that would support me with any possible needs in the following weeks, and most importantly, meet my beautiful Lucile, the name I gave to my XPULSE. Following the tradition of boats, to avoid bad luck during my journey, it was forbidden to give my faithful companion a male name.

Summing up the expedition, it lasted for 45 days, covered three countries, and encompassed over 5500 km in this initial journey. The first few days of riding through the northwest were challenging. South Africa was facing heavy rains that left parts of the country in disarray, making my motorcycle ride through flooded and pothole-ridden roads more exciting, but also more dangerous.

In the first few days, I passed through Groblersdal, Tzaneen, and Graskop. Unfortunately, I couldn’t enjoy the scenic routes of these destinations due to the rain. However, things started to improve from Graskop, near the border with Eswatini. I crossed the border on February 27th, six days after the start of this journey. I used the Jeppes Reef border at the suggestion of the locals, and from the first few kilometres, I could already tell that I was indeed in a new country, although paradoxically still “within South Africa.” It was a little over 120 km from the border to my accommodation, and the roads I travelled on were envied by many motorcyclists. Mountain ranges loomed on my horizon, and the higher I climbed in altitude, the fiercer the wind became, and the temperature dropped.

My accommodation, also suggested by the locals, was located within a nature reserve, teeming with abundant wildlife. As I rode my motorcycle through, I encountered zebras, impalas, warthogs, wildebeests, and various other animals. The BIG 5 (lions, elephants, rhinoceroses, buffaloes, and leopards) were not present there, so it was allowed to go on a bush walk and explore the savannah autonomously. And that’s exactly what I did! I even had the chance to admire crocodiles in the nearby lake.

After a few days of enjoyment, it was time to move on. I entered Eswatini from the north and exited from the far south. My intention was to reach a city called Mtunzini, located on the Eastern Cape coast, still bathed by the Indian Ocean. Due to the distance involved, I took a rest stop in Hluhluwe. It’s a region with a high concentration of game reserves that offer safaris to visitors. The weather in this region continued to be moody, and I had to navigate through flooded areas. It was also there that I saw giraffes for the first time on this expedition, albeit through fences.

I continued my journey to Mtunzini and had to face the dreaded N2, packed with trucks carrying coal to the port of Richard Bay. The traffic was so intense that I drove on the shoulder for almost the entire route, avoiding the wrath of the drivers. Mtunzini is located 140 km north of Durban, one of the major cities in the country. Also based on recommendations from locals I had received days earlier, I found a camping site within a national park (Umlalazi Wildlife). I was the only one staying there. The beaches in the area are wild and not suitable for swimming. I contented myself with walking along the extensive stretches of sand and admiring the beautiful landscapes. On one side, a vast ocean; on the other, dense forests and rivers flowing into the sea.

From the coast, it was time to head back inland. One of my plans was to visit the famous mountain range known as the Drakensberg (Dragon Mountain). It stretches into the Kingdom of Lesotho, which was also my destination as I planned to cross the iconic Sani Pass (a mountain pass leading to Lesotho). The distance was once again quite far, so another stop was necessary. I chose Mooi River via R614, avoiding major cities like Durban. The road was also quite scenic, despite dark clouds accompanying me throughout the journey.

I found accommodation outside the city, where the owner was working hard to recover from the recent rains. The river located a few meters below the accommodation had flooded and destroyed part of its structure. The next day, after researching access routes to Underberg, the base town for the famous Sani Pass, I opted for Nottingham Road. It was 100% off-road and quite deserted along the entire route. I had difficulty crossing it due to the mud and especially the flooded areas. I rode for dozens and dozens of kilometres without encountering any signs of life. I spent the day on the road, and I remember the fear I felt during this particular episode. Riding in desolate, flooded, and muddy places, with no support in sight if anything were to go wrong. But the fear that kept me responsible, cautious, and clear-headed throughout the journey eventually turned into pure happiness.

The Underberg region has so many merits that it’s hard to put into words. There are scenic roads that wind through the mountain ranges of the area. I found a retreat just 7 km from the South African border, very close to the Sani Pass.

It is essential for the ascent to occur on favourable days to avoid any complications. The next morning, I woke up in the dark, left all my belongings at the accommodation, had a nice breakfast, checked the weather forecast again, and set off to finally face the long-awaited Sani Pass. After getting my passport stamped, it was a 9 km climb on a gravel road to Lesotho. Due to the challenging and somewhat dangerous nature of the terrain, only 4×4 vehicles and organized tours are allowed to proceed. And there I was, on a motorcycle, climbing the place I had been eagerly anticipating.

It took just over an hour to complete the 9 km and get my passport stamped at the Lesotho border. I entered the country and was captivated by its natural beauty. I reached the highest point at 3240 meters above sea level and felt the power of the thin air not only on myself but also on Lucile. I spent the day exploring, talking to locals, and covering some kilometres within Lesotho.

The cloudy sky soon replaced the blue that had accompanied me. I decided to begin the journey back to Underberg. And so, I descended the steep 9 km of the Sani Pass.

Once again, my decision to acquire a lightweight motorcycle for the adventure I set out to do proved to be the right one. It would have been overly challenging to climb the Sani Pass with a heavy and unwieldy vehicle.

The following day, I headed back to the coast. I had heard a lot about the Wild Coast, located on the eastern coast of the country and home to one of the most prominent tribes, the Xhosa. In fact, it’s the same tribe that Mandela belonged to.

I must confess that it wasn’t a pleasant journey. I had concerns about passing through Mthatha, a city known for its high crime rates. Just a few kilometres before entering the city, I was stopped at a police checkpoint, and their intention to alert me only heightened my worries about passing through the inevitable city.

With due caution and benefiting from the agility that Lucile provided me, I quickly crossed the city and finally reached the last stage to Coffee Bay, the destination I had chosen on the Wild Coast. Although tired from the trip, I had fun on the terrible roads that connect Mthatha to Coffee Bay. Much more agile and faster than buses, cars, and trucks, I made up for lost time on the highways.

Unfortunately, paradise, as Coffee Bay is known, had turned into a scene of destruction. Just days before my arrival, the region experienced heavy rains and strong winds, causing trees to fall and bringing a lot of debris from the sea onto the beach. I even found a shipping container on the beach near my accommodation. I lamented the suffering of the locals, but I couldn’t help but enjoy the beautiful landscapes that the place still offered.

I decided to take a few days to rest before hitting the road again. My goal was Addo National Park. I’m passionate about the largest land mammal on the planet and couldn’t miss the chance to visit the home of elephants in South Africa. It would be quite a long journey, so I decided to make a stop in Morgans Bay. The town isn’t popular among foreign visitors to the country. Since there are no roads connecting the coast in this region, it’s necessary to ride a few kilometres inland before heading west. The bad weather continued to accompany me, but fortunately, I managed to avoid the rain. The South African coastline is wild and known for its strong winds. To reach Morgans Bay, I had to cross the Great Kei River, which runs for 320 km before flowing into the Indian Ocean. In the absence of a bridge connecting the mainland, I made the crossing on a small ferry.

Although my stay was short, it was extremely enjoyable. There are various cliffs around the town that are worth a visit to appreciate the surrounding sea. In the presence of local residents, I witnessed low tide fishing. As my goal was to visit Addo, the next morning I hit the road again towards the national park.

I found accommodation a few kilometres from the Addo entrance gate and took advantage of the proximity to book a sunrise game drive. Later, I realized that it was a mistake as elephants tend to be shy during sunrise.

On the night before my visit, the accommodation host invited me to a South African braai. In Brazil, as we know, barbecue is quite popular, but the quality of South African meat is impressive, even to us Brazilians. Before the first rays of the sun, I was already riding in the freezing morning towards the park’s main gate.

Unfortunately, I didn’t manage to spot any elephants among the 500+ that inhabit the park. It would have been comical if it weren’t tragic for someone who had been looking forward to this encounter. But that’s precisely the beauty of a safari: its unpredictability.

It was time to head to more pleasant temperatures and explore a region well-known not only to South Africans but especially to foreign visitors to the country. Jeffreys Bay was my next destination.

Just over a hundred kilometres connected Addo National Park to this coastal town. It was a rewarding journey, passing through small towns and roads with lush vegetation. I was entering a region that I had been eager to visit and had little opportunity to enjoy during my previous trip to the country.

Jeffreys Bay breathes surf. It is home to one of the World Surf League (WSL) stages, and the beach is known for its tubular waves. During the championship, you can get close to all the professional surfers who travel the world in search of the best waves.

Although the place is known for its powerful waves, the beaches are also beginner-friendly. Many foreigners visit Jeffreys Bay to learn to surf.

It was time to slow down and enjoy the journey more. I spent a few days in the town, soaking in the vibe, enjoying a cold beer, and connecting with other travellers. It was a well-deserved rest for someone who had faced challenging roads and dealt with bad weather for long, long days.

From Jeffreys Bay, I continued heading west towards Nature’s Valley. In my opinion, one of the most beautiful regions along the Garden Route. Since I had already visited Tsitsikamma National Park, I decided to spend only one day in the region before continuing my journey. I was eager to return to Wilderness, a small town that had been my home for just over a month a year earlier in 2022.

Wilderness is a welcoming town and a paradise for nature lovers. I stayed there for almost a week, enjoying all the activities the region has to offer, including Wilderness National Park. I also visited the Map of Africa, two mountains resembling the African continent, and observed dolphins on the town’s beach. It’s also possible to have fun exploring the various off-road and gravel roads.

From Wilderness, I rode two passes that I had been looking forward to Montagu Pass and Swartberg Pass. It’s difficult to choose the best adventures on this journey, but these two passes were undoubtedly memorable. Along with the Sani Pass and another adventure that I will tell later, they may have been the most epic places I visited with my Lucile.

I chose to stay in Oudtshoorn as I planned to continue to the Karoo via the famous Route 62, a semi-desert region. As I mentioned before, it’s hard to pick the most epic places on this journey, but Route 62 is certainly one of them. Here, the feeling of “nothingness” is present with every kilometre ridden. The area is extremely remote but shines brightly with the beauty of the desert. I knew there was a campsite with hot springs a few kilometres from Barrydale, so I decided to spend two nights there, enjoying the hot water pools. As always, I was warmly welcomed by South Africans, who were always curious about my journey.

From Barrydale, I continued along Route 62, passing through iconic towns like Montagu and Robertson. Here, I was heading to my final destination in South Africa: Cape Town. My heart was already feeling a bit heavy, but I knew there were still great adventures ahead.

Cape Town is a paradise for adventurers and nature lovers, and it’s one of the most beautiful cities in the world that I’ve ever visited. I took advantage of the city’s infrastructure to give Lucile her first check-up, as she hadn’t given me any problems so far. I drove several times along Chapman’s Peak, a scenic route that connects Cape Town to Simon’s Town, home of penguins. The same route also leads to Cape of Good Hope, discovered in the 15th century by the Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias.

During my visit, I took the opportunity to climb Table Mountain and Lions Head multiple times. I admired the sunset from Signal Hill, Sunset Rock, and Camps Bay. I enjoyed the bohemian vibe of the city and interacted with other travellers.

And here, in one of the most beautiful cities in the world, I concluded the first phase of my journey with Lucile. I couldn’t be more grateful for all the epic places she led me to, always resilient, fuel-efficient, and reliable. I ventured into many remote locations, far from civilization, and having a dependable companion like Lucile made my adventures much more enjoyable.

Until next time, fellow adventurers.
Gabriel Turano

As I stood on top of Furka Pass in Switzerland, I could see the road snaking into the valley below. It then crosses a small bridge and starts the upward climb of Grimsel Pass. I could still not believe I am finally here. The only sounds around me were from cars and bikes going up and down the pass. I wanted to stay in that spot and not return to my hotel. To be here was a blessing.

But, let me rewind a little so you can understand what a journey it was until this very point. Back in 2019, I undertook a tour of the northern parts of Italy and the Dolomites on a motorcycle. I did it all through Edelweiss Bike Travel, and my son accompanied me at the time as a pillion.

On returning to South Africa, I immediately started planning the next one, as there were still a few outstanding passes in Europe that needed riding. I had it all planned, booked and paid to commence in September 2020. And then the world stopped. In 2021, there were still travel restrictions, and by 2022, I was not sure I wanted to do this anymore. But, as time went by, I realised that I needed to do this while I was still in good health, and could somehow still afford it. I then started planning my tour for the first week of June 2023.

One pass that was still on my bucket list was Stelvio Pass. I posted a photo of Stelvio on my Facebook page, and then I got a curious message from Riaan Neveling, Head of Global Marketing for KTM. It simply read: “Your bike is waiting.” I rode with Riaan and KTM through Lesotho and around Kyalami, so it was only natural that if I was going to tour Europe, I do it on a KTM. At the time, there was still no indication that KTM was due to launch the KTM 890 SMT, so I was lucky to have planned my trip not long after the international launch of the SMT. Riaan had one ready for me in Mattighofen, the home of KTM.

Day 1 – Mattighofen to Zell am See

I flew into Vienna and took a three-hour long train ride to Mattighofen, where I was collected by another South African, Gareth Davidson. He took me to KTM’s impressive House of Brands building. Here I saw the prototypes of many of the Pierer Mobility group’s products and even got up close and personal with Pol Espagaro’s GASGAS MotoGP bike. I had to tear myself away from all the eye candy, as I still had a way to go today. I planned to do a short ride on the first day, just to get away from Salzburg and get myself acquainted with the bike and riding on the other side of the road.

I was introduced to my steed for the week and transferred seven days’ worth of luggage into the bike’s panniers. The panniers are remarkably spacious, even if the right side pannier is compromised as it has to wrap around the exhaust. They attach and detach with ease and they mount on a frame that has a small amount of movement. Apparently, this makes the bike more stable at high speeds.

I set my route for Zell am See to avoid all toll roads and highways, and took the scenic route south. As it happens, there are very strict speed limits in Austria, so progress was painfully slow. I was starting to doubt whether my planning for this trip was done right. Fortunately, during the summer, the sun sets very late, so I still had some time to take a walk down at the lake. On my way back to the hotel, I saw a very unique Vespa. As it turns out, this Vespa belonged to Markus Mayer who took 80 days to travel around the world on small-capacity Vespas. I wish I could have chatted to him. I turned in early to officially start my journey the next day.

La Vida Vespa – 80 Days Around the World by Markus Mayer

Day 2 – Zell am See to Trento

Breakfasts in Europe are normally cold meats and various types of bread. Fortunately, my hotel made a proper breakfast with bacon and eggs. I was feeling good as I pushed the KTM out of the garage. The weather was playing along as well and I headed towards my first pass: the Grossglockner high alpine road. Even though this pass was one I rode in 2019, I wanted to get as many passes in to really enjoy the SMT.

KTM deems this bike to be a sports tourer, and what better place to test this than in the spectacular alpine passes? Grossglockner is a toll road, and at €30, it had better deliver. And deliver it did! Because I left early, I had the pass mostly to myself. This pass does have a few switchbacks but is mostly long sweeping curves, and the SMT was the perfect bike for this stint. With snow-capped mountains all over, I really had to concentrate as I did not want to make any mistakes at this early stage of the tour.

I stopped a lot and was eventually joined by Gary on his Triumph 1200. We stopped at the top of the pass and had a quick cup of coffee. What is it about bikers that can chat as if they had been friends for life? From the top of the pass, I said goodbye to Gary as I was heading to Italy and he was planning to spend most of the day on the Grossglockner. As I crossed into Italy, I am forever grateful that Europe does not have border posts anymore. You simply pass a sign that tells you that you are now in Italy. I spent the night on a working wine farm in the town of Trento. The owner of the establishment, Matteo, had some interesting suggestions for the next day.

Day 3 – Trento to Tirano via Strada della Forra

Not far from Trento lies Lake Garda, a large expanse of water, with some amazing roads hugging the shoreline. What Matteo suggested though, is a very short inland road called Strada della Forra. Even though it is a mere 5 km long, this was the most rewarding road I had ever ridden. It is a narrow road, snaking its way through tunnels and massive cliffs. The cool, fresh smell was only beaten by the spectacular scenery.

I stopped at a Pizzeria at the end of the pass for some coffee and as I headed back, I was told that the road has now become a one-way. It only allows two-way traffic through Strada della Forra till a certain time. Slightly bemused, I headed back and then got completely lost on yet another spectacular mountain pass that spat me out on the road next to Garda.

Being in traffic is never pleasant, as I did not know whether I could lane split or not. Soon, some two-stroke Vespas showed the way and I followed the fumes out of the bustle to a small country road. The KTM performed as it should. This bike is seriously comfortable as a tourer, crawling through traffic and also proved that you can really hustle it on tight twisty roads. My next overnight stop was the in the town of Tirano.

Day 4 – Tirano to Disentis

Tirano, Italy is the starting point of the famous Bernina Express train. This train takes passengers along a very scenic route into Switzerland. It also crosses a few bridges that link tunnels carved into sheer cliff faces. I had the privilege to ride this train back in 2018, and this time I was going a similar route, but by road.

You are barely out of Tirano when you cross into Switzerland. I was not even up to speed when the beauty of Switzerland took my breath away. I was raving about yesterday’s trip when Switzerland said: “Here, hold my beer. Let me show this Saffer something.” I rode the Bernina pass slowly, taking in the amazing views. Somewhere along the pass, motorhomes were parked and I wondered what it must be like to just park next to the road and know you are safe.

As I approached St. Moritz, I was behind a family on two bikes. Father and son on a BMW K 1600 and mom on a Ducati Streetfighter. I just followed them all the way, and as they turned off into town, I headed to Maloja Pass. I thought I asked a lot of the KTM through the twisties but soon realised that my skill level is way below what this bike is capable of. Even with two fully loaded panniers, the SMT just stayed true and planted. At the bottom of Maloja, I stopped at a ruin of the church, turned around and headed back up the pass. This time with more enthusiasm.

As Riaan pointed out, the SMT can be ridden as a tourer or in full attack mode. Either will deliver satisfactory results. Next up was Julier Pass, also a very rewarding road to ride. At the kiosk at the top, the lady behind the counter wore a Sharks apron. Turns out she was born Swiss but lived in South Africa for 30 years. We had a chat and I could not help noticing the heavy German accent. Why do foreigners living in South Africa for years, not lose their accents, but a South African has a 3-hour stopover in New York and they come back with a Yankee twang and interject the word “like” after every two spoken words? The mind boggles. I reached my overnight accommodation around lunchtime, and by now I was tired from all the riding. I decided to call it a day, even though the other passes were not far from where I stayed.

Day 5 – Disentis

The day started with a drizzle. I was regretting not going out the previous day because I was not looking forward to wet roads. The KTM is fitted with Michelin PowerGp tyres, and they are nothing more than slick tyres with a few shallow grooves. Not what I needed now. I went for breakfast, and thankfully the weather started to clear. The KTM was now free of its luggage, so I headed out on fast-drying roads in the direction of Gotthard Pass. But first, I had to traverse Oberalp Pass and soon realised that I needed to watch out for some really exotic cars in my rear-view mirrors.

Every so often a Lamborghini or McLaren will loom large in my mirrors. I let them pass and they provided aural delight, crackling and burbling their way to the top. I stopped next to the road where a BMW K1600 was admiring the view. The rider was a local named Roger and we chatted about all things biking. I felt sorry for him as these roads were only accessible for around six months of the year. The rest of the time they are covered in snow.

From Gotthard Pass, I headed to Furka Pass. At the top, you can see the pass cascading into the valley, only to meet up with Grimsel Pass which takes you up the other side. From here I wanted to circle back to Disentis via Susten Pass, but this pass was still closed because of snow.

As I said in my opening paragraph, here it dawned on me where I was, and how incredibly lucky I was to be standing here. I became rather emotional and I did not want to leave. I wanted to stay here, listen to the bikes and cars and just sniff two-stroke fumes all day. To say this is riding heaven would be underrating Furka and Grimsel. It must be one of the most beautiful pieces of tarmac I have ever seen. But, back in Disentis, I saw the mangled wreck of a Yamaha XSR900, and it just reminded me that this beautiful road can bite you if you are not careful.

Day 6 – Disentis to Bormio

I left Disentis on a Sunday under the chiming of church bells. I wondered if going to church was still a thing in Europe. The streets were quiet and the roads were empty. Even though I was sad to leave Switzerland, my credit card rejoiced. Switzerland is not for the thin-of-wallet. I rode in the direction of Davos because I wanted to ride a specific piece of road that is one of those hidden gems.

On the way there I stopped at a place called Solisbrüke. As I sat down for coffee, a friendly ginger cat saddled up to me. I heard birds chime notes I have never heard before. This was solace. This was peace. This is what I ached for. Switzerland was simply a sensory overload and it felt almost like I could not take in any more.

I crossed another two passes, the Albula and Fuorn Pass and then onto Umbrial Pass. This pass goes straight to the top of Stelvio, yet the road was quiet and I could once again revel in the stunning views and utter enjoyment of the KTM. Where Umbrial Pass connects with the Stelvio road, I had to turn right towards Bormio where my accommodation was booked, but instead, I headed to the top of Stelvio. Big mistake. This time of day the pass is a traffic jam of note. On top of that, it started to rain. I turned around to go check into my hotel in Bormio.

The road from the top of Stelvio towards Bormio was yet another breathtaking road. Long sweeps and gentle hairpins meant I could wind the SMT up a bit. I am not a fast rider by any stretch of the imagination, but there were some seriously slow riders there. Decked out in leathers and very fast bikes, the SMT with me at the controls made light work of them. But on the flip side, there are also some very fast riders there. I was overtaken by a 790 Duke, the rider waving at me, giving the SMT a nod of approval, and then he was gone. I tried keeping up, but his pace was terrifying and I decided to back off and roll gently into Bormio.

After freeing the SMT of its luggage once again, I headed up to Stelvio later in the afternoon. The roads were still damp from the rain, but the rain did chase away most of the traffic. The view over Stelvio is certainly magnificent, and as I looked down at one of the hairpins, a rider was picking up his Honda that tipped over. I decided not to risk it and rather went back to Bormio to tackle Stelvio the next day.

Day 7 – Bormio to Vipetino

The penultimate day broke, and today I was going to ride the infamous Stelvio pass. I left early, so I could miss the traffic. As I rolled out of Bormio, a trio of bikers lead the way at a brisk pace. I felt comfortable staying behind them. As I crested Stelvio, the endless curios shops and overpriced souvenirs lured me in. So, I got the T-shirt. Stelvio is truly an engineering marvel, and with more than 40 tight hairpin bends to contend with, this pass is not fun. Especially near the top.

People were dropping their bikes, Ferraris were getting stuck because the corners are too tight, and all the while, I was just trying to make my way down in one piece. I don’t know what was sadder, my slow pace or the guy on a SuperDuke duck-pedalling his bike around a hairpin. Stelvio is definitely not what I had pictured. Fortunately, the sensory onslaught continued on my way to Vipetino with the beautiful Jaufen pass, and by the time I reached Vipetino, my entire being called: “Enough now! Enough!” There were still sights to see and passes to ride, but I was totally content to call it a day.

Day 8 – Vipetino – Mattighofen

Just as I left Italy, Brenner Pass offered me two more hairpins as a last hurrah as I pointed the SMT north to Mattighofen. I chose the highway this time, and for a brief moment, I was on the German Autobahn. I tentatively urged the SMT on and it delivered. But even at high speeds, I simply had to retreat to the slow lane as cars were passing me. I covered over 1800 km in the 8 days, and the bike returned a respectable 3.8 l/100 km. KTM launched the SMT to be a sports tourer and I must admit, they got it just right. This bike gives you the performance and agility of the 890 Duke but with the comfort of the 890 Adventure. The KMT 890 SMT was the perfect companion for this trip.

For anyone who is even thinking about doing something similar: beg, borrow, save or get a government tender, but whatever you do, touring through Europe on a motorcycle is one thing you have to do!

Even though I covered all the costs of the trip myself, I am eternally grateful for the South African connections heading up the marketing of the KTM brand. To Riaan Neveling, Diete Engelbrecht and Gareth Davidson, thank you from the bottom of my heart for trusting me with your bike. One day I might forget my name, but I doubt I will ever forget this trip!